Friday, July 29, 2016

In and Around Caraquet

Two Bowls of Café au Lait

Photos: July 28, 2016

What a great way to start a day that combined nature and sublime music, sunshine and driving rain, a rustic restaurant and a church full of surprises.

Hotel Paulin

We are staying in this hotel which dates from 1891. While it is well-appointed to modern standards, it retains much of the old charms.

A Bench Exercise Circuit

A walk in the morning took us past a spot for resting, or so I thought. Each bench had a sign complete with QR code indicating what exercises you could be doing at each bench - a keep fit park!

Purple Wild Flowers

Swaths of flowers fill the meadows and meet the coastline. These flowers are common in the Laurentians in Quebec, where I spent my summers for over 30 years. I always see them with some nostalgia.

Taking Off

Cormorants and seagulls like the rocks which peek out of the water. They come and go, jockeying for positions on their favourite perches.


The skies turned dark and the temperature plummeted. We stopped for supper on Île Miscou at this quirky place - not much more than a shack. The walls were covered with old photographs of local fishermen as well as writing from the many people who have passed through here. The specialty here is local seafood all of which is served on styrofoam plates (not too ecological).

Église Ste-Cécile

Our evening's destination was Église Ste-Cécile, home of the Lameque Baroque Festival. This church is a perfect example of not judging a book by its cover. This traditional exterior hides a riot of colour.

Église Ste-Cécile Lamèque

One woman described it to me as "it looks like the gumdrop factory exploded in here."  There is not a centimetre of white space. You can read about it here in French. This wild decor was the creation of Paul Gauvin under the auspices of the curé, Gérard D'Astous and was done in 1968.

In Ste-Cécile

Nothing can prepare you for this psychedelic church.

Not a bit of white

The purple tinge comes from the lights for the concert which was the reason for our visit there. It is always a joy to hear some of my favourite young musicians and to see them develop into very competent professionals. The concert was entitled: Stormy Winds (flute, recorder, oboe, bassoon with accompaniment on cello and harpsichord). While the drive home wasn't windy, it was certainly stormy! Perhaps a dark reprieve from the many colours of the evening.

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