Off to Newfoundland

Photos: July 31, 2016

A farewell to Cape Breton and a spectacular drive to North Sydney. The vistas are amazing.




We drove past the Alexander Graham Bell museum.  Did you know that he spent time in Baddeck? They arrived there in 1885 and built two homes on their estate which they names Beinn Bhreagh (Gaelic for Beautiful Mountain). He did a lot of experimental work here on flight and a precursor to the hovercraft. His aircraft, The Silver Dart, was flown here. During the last thirty years of his life he spent a lot of time in Baddeck, dying there in 1922. Both he and his wife are buried on top of their mountain.




We lined up for the Newfoundland ferry - a hot wait on a very sunny day. The shortest ferry ride goes between North Sydney, NS and Port aux Basques, NL and takes between six and eight hours. Last time we went to Newfoundland we took the longer route between North Sydney and Argentia. It takes around 14 hours.



An enormous number of cars and trucks fit onto the ferry. I learned that over 50% of the goods going into Newfoundland get there by ferry.



The crossing was very smooth on this magnificent day.



Newfoundland is also known as "The Rock" - soil is not deep and bedrock shows through everywhere. Some of the electricity and phone poles are anchored in structures filled with large rocks as they cannot be buried deep enough to be supported.



Port aux Basque was named for the many fishermen who fished this area from the Basque region of Spain and Portugal starting around the 1500s. The Grand Banks which are located off Newfoundland are a relatively shallow part of the ocean with plentiful fish (at least that was the case before over-fishing). European fishermen came here and brought their catch back to Europe after salting it to preserve it.



After a supper of Bermise ginger moose (a moose stew) we took a walk and enjoyed the sunset. Watches have been changed to Newfoundland time (UTC -2.5).

On the Road - Caraquet to Baddeck

Photos: July 30, 2016

It's a long drive from Caraquet to Baddeck. We made a stop in Bouctouche NB for lunch. This is still Acadian country, birthplace of Antonine Maillet, a celebrated Acadian author. Her play,  La Sagouine portrays the life of an archetypal Acadian character.

The Farmer's Market was taking place when we stopped. Here is a taste of some Acadian music we heard there.



With the "Grand Dérangement" many Acadians were sent to Louisiana and spread the Acadian culture there.



After a lengthy drive we arrived in Baddeck on Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia. Baddeck is on the Bras D'Or Lake - a very large body of water. There are many pleasure boats docked at Baddeck. If you haven't been to Cape Breton, think about coming - this time we are really just passing through, but I have spent time here before.



The sun slowly set over the Bras D'Or Lakes. A silent time.



Feel like reading? I'll recommend a couple of Cape Breton authors

Alistair MacLeod - his novel No Great Mischief is great. His short stories are to be savoured.
When I was here several years ago I heard Beatrice MacNeil read from her book, Butterflies Dance in the Dark. I bought it and loved it.

Day 189: North Sydney to Argentia Ferry

Day 189: North Sydney to Argentia Ferry, originally uploaded by susanvg.

We were told to be at the ferry between 6:30 and 7:30 (with the ship scheduled to leave at 9:00) The wait for the ferry passed by – looking at the license plates from all over (BC, Pennsylvania, Ontario, Texas ….) and chatting with some others who shared their past experience with the ferry. Finally we drove into the gaping mouth of the ferry. It is unbelievable how many vehicles fit into this ship – from huge 18 wheelers with full cargo to passenger cars, motor homes, motorcycles, school buses, trucks towing boats... It took over and hour and a half just to load them all on. The ferry, itself is quite large with lounges, areas with seats that recline, a cafeteria, movie theatre, lounge with entertainment and sleeping cabins. We had been on the waiting list for a cabin and were fortunate enough to get one once we were on the ferry. Neither of us relished a night sitting up (no matter how far the seats reclined or that they had foot rests). Our cabin was well equipped with 4 bunks and a bathroom with a shower. Once the lights were off it was very dark and that plus the slight rocking of the ship helped us sleep.

The crossing is supposed to take 14-16 hours – it really makes you feel you are going somewhere far away. In this day of jet travel, we sometimes don't appreciate distances . Moving at a slower pace and through the territory makes you realize how vast our country is and how it is possible to have regions with such varied cultures – born of the different environments, different immigrants who settled there and different realities.